This morning we’ve got another DIY tutorial for you and it’s just a little bit bold… I really wanted to try this as part of the looks we shot for the DIY tutorials, I really fell in love with the vampy looks I saw in the September issues and strong lips have been slowly creeping in for a couple of seasons now. The tricky bit is just how does the average girl pull it off? I think there’s no mistaking that this is a party look, so that’s how we staged it and it’s also one that perhaps darker skins are going to be more suited to wearing, therefore I hope you’ll welcome the lovely Mahj who leant us her fabulous pout for this look 🙂
Catherine from Ivy Clara, the makeup artist who glammed Mahj up, is going to talk us through how to create this look – take it away Catherine!
This year, dark lips featured a lot in the A/W collections of a number of design houses. Some of my favourite looks belonged to Gucci, Givenchy and Holly Fulton where dark, glossy lips were the ‘black’ cherry on the cake. I loved this look and stared in awe at the gothic-esque models with their pale skin and vampy look, but even as a makeup artist, have been a bit scared to try and pull this off on my own pout. I should not have doubted this gorgeous winter look. In my opinion it’s all about less is more. By that I mean a dark lip looks classy, but on an average girl like myself, to team it with a dark gothic eye as seen on the Givenchy catwalk, would definitely be too much. Being brave with makeup is more to do with being clever with makeup. Look in Vogue for ideas of course, (I am addicted to the magazine) but don’t assume that the looks you see can’t be transferred from the catwalk to the sidewalk! Think, ‘Maybe I could wear a bright pink lip but leave the orange eyeshaow out’ or as in the case today ‘Maybe I could actually wear a dark lip, but with a little warmth to the skin and a neutral eye…’ Here goes ladies. The makeup for Holly Fulton’s collection, in my opinion, was one of the most wearable, and inspired me for Mahj’s look.
For this look, I created a matte, flawless base, lightly bronzed. Eyes were highlighted with gold to create a really ‘expensive’ finish. The black element was added to the eyes only by lashings of jet black mascara and lips were a sumptuous glossy shade resembling black cherries.
1. Create a flawless base by applying a medium coverage foundation strating at the centre of the face and blending outwards. Skin coverage is needed mostly in the centre of the face so this method ensures that skin is not over loaded with product. Next, apply a concealer such as Laura Mercier’s ‘Secret Camouflage’ under the eyes and pat with your ring finger (the finger with the lightest touch,) or lightly buff with a fluffy brush like the Mac 224. Mahj’s facial skin is flawless and creamy in colour which worked well with this ‘vampesque’ look. A subtle ‘warmth’ was added by sweeping bronzer lightly across the forehead, bridge of the nose, cheekbones and chin. I used Daniel Sandler’s Mineral Bronzing Powder. This helps to soften a winter complexion.
2. For the eyes I began by sweeping a light gold irredescent eyeshadow all over the lid and ended just above the socket line. I took this colour right into the corner of the eyes to highlight them. I used L’Oreal La Couleur Infallible Eyeshadow in ‘Goldmine’.
3. To create socket definition, I then applied a rich bronze to the outer socket line and buffed this into the gold base underneath. For this, I used Illamasqua Pure Pigment in ‘Rich Russet Bronze’.
4. I then added a soft brown line along the upper and lower lash line with Mac’s ‘Espresso’ Matte Eyeshadow to create definition. This finish created a look a lot less harsh than a black eyeliner would have.
5. I then lightly combed through Mahj’s eyeborows with Mac’s Brow Set in ‘Beguile’ to create a groomed look without being too harsh.
6. Next I tackled the lips. I didn’t use a lip pencil as I wanted to ensure the line created was the same colour as the lipstick. These days, a good lipstick does not ‘bleed’ and their formulations lend themselves to being used in this way. It also saves you having to buy a lip liner in various different colours – especially if you are only experimenting! I used a fine lip brush with short strokes until I had taken the line around the entire lips. You can then go over again until you are happy with the lip shape. Don’t attempt to draw a solid line without stopping, this will more often than not look wonky! The product I chose to use was ‘Rouge Interdit – Lune Carmin Lipstick No 52’ by Givenchy.
7. At this point I should add that even makeup artists can make the odd mistake, especially with such pigmented colour! Clean up any mistakes with your concealer brush and a spot of concealer. Next fill the lips in with the same colour and blot before re-applying.
8. This could be the last step for the lips but I really wanted Mahj to have a glossy lip to create even more glamour. I added a thin layer of gloss in a similar colour over the entire lips. To create this I used a gloss by the same Givenchy range which compliments the base colour, ‘Gloss Interdit – Lune Carmin Lip Gloss No 31’.
9. To finish the look I added lashings of black mascara, tipping my hat to Givenchy but avoiding a run in with Dracula.
I think this is such a strong look, but it’s also a grown up one. I love seeing women who aren’t afraid to play with makeup and are no longer wearing it so everyone thinks they look ‘pretty’ – men included, but because they love it. This is what this look is about for me. I’ll be wearing it come the festive season with loose curls and sparkles 🙂 Thank you so much Mahj, Zoe Hodson and Catherine for showing us how it’s done!
I’d love to hear what you think of this look – is it something you do or don’t like, or have we made you consider trying something new?
PS. I have posted this in the comments below, but as a few of you have been asking for advice on shades for paler skins here is a twit pic of me wearing the same look. Catherine will pop by later to give advice on other shades too. xo